Full Grey Coverage — Level 5 Warm Brown

Grey CoverageCONFIDENCEHIGH

DEMO — REQUIRES DINA REVIEW

This formula entry is part of the DCI demo library and has not yet been formally reviewed and approved by Dina Laurent. Do not use for clinical application without independent professional assessment.

Client & Diagnosis

Client Profile: Client with 80–100% grey seeking full coverage at a Level 5 warm brown. Typically aged 45–65. Natural base was Level 5 medium brown before greying. Wants a natural, rich brown result that covers completely and fades gracefully.
Hair History: Hair is fully grey or white at the roots. May have prior permanent color. Elasticity: typically good in fully grey hair. Cuticle: may be slightly more compact in grey sections — requires protocol attention.
Hair Diagnosis: Current level: 10 (white/grey — no pigment). Target: Level 5 warm brown. The challenge is not lift — it is sufficient pigment saturation and grey cuticle penetration. Grey hair's compact cuticle may require pre-softening or extended timing.
Current Level: Level 10 (grey/white — amelanotic)
Target Level: Level 5 Warm Brown — full grey coverage, natural and rich

The Formula

Formula: 30g 5/3 (Gold Light Brown) + 10g 5/4 (Copper Light Brown) + 5g 5/7 (Brunette/Mocha Light Brown) + 60ml developer
Mixing Ratio: 45g product : 60ml developer (1:1.3)
Developer: 6% / 20 Vol — required for full penetration into compact grey cuticle
Timing: 35–45 minutes. Under cap for maximum penetration. Check at 35 minutes.
Expected Lift: No lift required. Pure tone deposit into amelanotic (pigment-free) cortex.

Intelligence Layer

Why It Works: Grey hair contains no melanin — the formula is depositing into a colorless cortex, not displacing existing pigment. The 5/3 (gold) provides the warm brown base. The 5/4 (copper) adds the dimensional red-warm that prevents the result from reading flat or ashy. The 5/7 (brunette modifier) adds the muted depth that makes the result read "natural brown" rather than uniform color. At 6% developer, the formula penetrates the potentially compact grey cuticle adequately for lasting coverage. [S2]
Common Mistakes: (1) Using 3% developer on resistant grey — insufficient penetration leads to rapid fade within 2 weeks. SOLUTION: 6% developer minimum for full coverage on grey. (2) Applying without assessing cuticle compaction — some grey hair is highly resistant. SOLUTION: Perform a strand test on the most resistant sections before committing to the full service. [S2]
Alternatives: Adjust depth: 4/3 (darker warm brown) for a Level 4 target. 6/3 (Light brown) for a Level 6 result. Add 0/44 copper intensifier (5g) for additional warmth on resistant cool-toned grey.
Maintenance: Root touch-up every 4–6 weeks. Home: color-safe shampoo and conditioner with warm-tone maintenance. No purple shampoo — it will neutralize the warm brown direction.

AI & Case Layer

AI Decision Logic: IF current = grey/white AND target = Level 5 warm brown AND coverage = 80%+ THEN route to GC-001. IF coverage = 30–50% THEN consider GC-blend series (grey blending, not full coverage).
Similar Cases: GC-002 (Level 5 Cool Ash Coverage — for clients preferring a cooler direction)

This is a recommendation. Professional assessment and judgment are required before application. Canvas level, structural condition, and chemical history must be assessed physically at the chair.

Tags:grey coverageLevel 5warm brownpermanentfull coverage